Caitlin and I arrived at the park the next morning. She drove me in early, a punishment for having to sleep on her couch. It was still dark, and we could only see the snow drifting across the headlights as I fought the urge to fall back to sleep.
I was cold, hungover, waiting around our break room just to watch the sunrise come through the window. The lights buzzed quietly. The cheap coffee I drank out of a styrofoam cup tasted like chemicals. As I took the final sip, I felt an urge to sink my teeth into the cup and tear it apart.
I was laying my head on the table and moving a loose piece of coffee bean across my gums when Caitlin got a call. “Hey Buck,” she said through a yawn. Each part of her face looked like it was sinking out of exhaustion, but her brow furrowed.
“Why would you call me if you’re right outside?”
I chuckled until Caitlin tapped my shoulder.
“Kid, you didn’t see any cars, did… Buck, it was pitch dark when we got here. We didn’t see anything. Are you saying that girl’s car is still there?”
She grabbed her jacket and braced herself. She opened the door to Buck standing in the parking lot silhouetted against the sunrise, next to the only car that wasn’t ours. It was empty. The doors were unlocked, and her bags were inside.
“Call David,” Buck said, “we need the helicopter.”
Caitlin took the call while Buck and I walked around the parking lot, once again looking for footprints.
“I shouldn’t have left,” he said, “It was wrong to leave when she was struggling like that.”
“It’s alright, Buck, we’ll find her.”
Buck’s eyes glossed over the bumps in the snow but he never stopped to look. Everything around the parking lot looked undisturbed. Waiting for a rustle to help us find her felt strange, almost as if the stillness was now mocking us. Buck heard the futility in it, but he was used to it. I trusted him and followed quietly until the air started to convulse with the helicopter blades cutting over the mountain.
The snow in the parking lot turned into a pulsing tidal wave as the helicopter landed. The pounding of the engine split across my head and turned my hangover into an awful migraine. After grabbing binoculars, we boarded and ascended.
I didn’t bother to ask where we were going, and nobody bothered to tell me. Everyone quickly took to looking over the landscape. After a few minutes, David gestured at the glacier field in front of us and began to descend. My stomach sank. Once everyone saw the spot he was pointing at, the rest of the ride was just preparation. Controlling your breath, keeping the mind from slipping away, and thinking of what the right thing to say is once it’s time for explanations.
“Hypothermia, frostbite,” Buck said, standing next to the body, “and what appears to be a case of paradoxical undressing.”
Looking at her, my eyesight crashed between clear and distorted. Even though everything was still, I only saw glimpses of her through what my mind would allow.
She was keeling next to the Eye, almost in the same spot as Hal, and her jacket was open, exposing her bare chest. Her body had been eaten by the cold. Her face was cracked and pale except for her nose, which was so black and shriveled it looked almost as if it had been scorched.
In a fit of undressing brought by the cold, she had unzipped her jacket, but she had also done something I hadn’t seen in cases of hypothermia before. She had not only torn through her cotton shirt, but through her spandex sports bra. Caitlin removed one of her gloves and an investigation of her hands revealed large fractures and tears in her fingers, indicating the immense strain she put on herself to rip everything open. Next to her body was a speck of red in the snow. I scooped it up and realized a fingernail fell out of her glove, and it was painted in her blood.
Caitlin zipped up her jacket to cover her naked body, although from bowing into the snow, her chest had been stripped of identifiable features. Everything had turned black from frostbite, leaving her skin looking ancient and long past the rot it had to endure. She was brittle, and moving her body produced sickening scapes and cracks. When I heard a snap from her hip as her body was put onto a stretcher, I ran back to the helicopter and cowered from my migraine.
The return was muted. The words out of Caitlin and Buck were only wisps of things I could catch. Comfort. Contacting the family. Another break from rescue work. It was practically forced upon me, and this time I didn’t complain. I knew I would get through it, but I didn’t know how long it would take.
That night I went to Anchorage and drank until I disappeared into the smoke of the club floor. The music made the migraine feel like it was pulse away from cracking my skull, but for a few hours, I had a new rhythm other than my heart.
In the early morning, I dreamed of men lost on the mountain. They were frozen beneath trees breaking beneath the snow and I couldn’t see if they were going up the mountain or down. I went up to one of the men and as I pushed a branch to the side, I woke up grasping my chest, praying that it wasn’t frozen.
The agreement was with Caitlin that when the nightmares stop, I can return. Buck showed up randomly one night to have a cigarette with me. Neither of us smoke, and we didn’t say much of anything during it, but after he left I slept a little better. At one point I even tried to call my mother, but she didn’t pick up.
When I return to work, I’ll have to take the wild of the mountain that I don’t want with the kind that I do. I’m continuing to write this thinking that something will come together for me. Of all the bodies I helped recover, I can’t understand what it was about this one that revealed to me that I never had a choice in the matter. Maybe it was just seeing the decay at the wrong time, or that the Eye, for some reason, keeps being the wrong place. All I want is to choose hope. Someone has to.
Buck and Caitlin set out to recover the men inside the Eye as soon as possible the next day. But, they had a visitor.
Cold destroys the body, regardless if the person is alive or not. News regarding the Eye was released the night of Hal’s death to those connected to the bodies. The next morning, a woman arrived. She had all the gear she would need. She knew crevasse rescue, and she recounted her history as a ski instructor. According to the team, there was no reason to turn her down, especially since she was the sister of James Melendez, the man who first fell into The Eye.
I still had the day off, but I couldn’t resist knowing about the rescue as soon as it was over. Once they returned in the afternoon, I set out to join them at Caitlin’s house for dinner, hoping to hear everything about the mission. I arrived just in time to help Caitlin’s wife, Jeanie, pull a recently killed deer out of the back of her truck.
As dinner was being prepared, I took an audio recording.
Me: Alright, it’s on.
Buck: Do I look good?
Me: It’s just audio.
Jeanie: (yelling from the kitchen) The answer is no!
Buck: Aaaah I don’t think so. She right Davy?
David: Please don’t call me that.
Buck: What were we gonna talk about?
Caitlin: (bringing drinks to the table) The rescue with, uh, Sasha, from today. You feeling better, kiddo?
Me: Yeah.
Caitlin: Good, good. Okay, so, Sasha…
Buck: What was she, like, thirty?
Caitlin: Wasn’t much older than her brother. She had way more experience though. Smart too.
Buck: I don’t know if this is true, but it seemed like she raised him. You think that?
Caitlin: I can see it.
Buck: I took care of my siblings when I was a kid and you can tell when someone got that kind of maturity… wait, Jeanie what is this?
Jeanie: Uh, it’s an IPA from the brewery down the road. It’s good, right Cate?
Caitlin: Yeah! (shaking her head at Buck)
Buck: It tastes like batteries. Tell me it tastes like batteries, David.
David tastes it. He shrugs.
Buck: That’s a yes. The California boy can have it, right?
Me: Sure. (I pushed away a glass I had already emptied glass)
Caitlin: Jesus, you’re crashing on the couch.
Me: Fine. What was Sasha like?
Buck: You know, she’s a ski instructor from Anchorage so she’s all business and familiar with all the kind of stuff we do.
Caitlin: Very knowledgable. She asked all the questions she could, I guess, before the chopper ride in.
Me: What do you mean all she could?
Caitlin: Well, she didn’t want to know too much about her brother. She just wanted to know how to get him out, you know?
Buck: We landed and immediately set up a belay. We were confident about the ice holding so we got her in there quick.
Me: Her? She went in?
Buck: Trust me, I know. (he raised his hand in disbelief, looking at Caitlin)
Caitlin: She had a way about her. It took us a couple minutes to try and talk her out of it, but it wasn’t going to work.
Buck: I just said fuck it and radioed the rangers to see if we’d get in trouble.
Me: And?
Buck: They said they had no problem with us letting her in there as long as she got out, and she did.
Caitlin: Much quicker than we expected too.
Me: She didn’t stay in there long?
Buck: How long’d she stay in there David?
David: I’d say after her head dipped below the hole, she descended slowly for about thirty seconds. Then, she radioed back up.
Me: Why? Was she scared?
David: (shrugged)
Caitlin: Well, in the moment, we had no way of knowing. The radio malfunctioned and wasn’t carrying her voice. It was really quiet. We were lowering her down and suddenly we heard static.
Buck: When it came through we started to pull her up, just to be safe. When she came up, she didn’t complain.
Caitlin: She scrambled up the side, and, oh, that’s when I noticed what you noticed!
Me: What?
Caitlin: The ice. It was suddenly getting slippery. She had to slam her crampons hard into the side, and even then it only held for a second.
Buck: Wasn’t much of a problem since we just pulled her out quick, but yeah, she seemed to struggle with it.
Me: Did she say anything?
Caitlin: Well, when she stood up she started smacking the side of her flashlight.
Buck: She said it was broken.
Caitlin: Yeah. Looked like it was working fine to me, and then she was just quiet.
Me: Was she acting weird?
Buck: I don’t know what weird would be in this situation. Not being able to find your brother when you’re right above him is definitely weird, you know? She just… (he gestures at Catilin)
Caitlin: She didn’t say much on the way back.
Buck: Just looked at her feet.
Caitlin: Yeah. Poor girl. She said thank you when she left, but that was it. She was really meek when she said it too.
Buck: I won’t lie, it was heartbreaking. She seemed like a little kid. Wouldn’t look us in the eyes. The sun was setting and she was just sitting in her car as we left for the day.
Me: Damn.
Buck: I need another beer. Jeanie!
Jeanie: What? I’m not bothering the recording, am I?
Buck: Absolutely not, Ji Ji.
Caitlin: He’s just whining about another beer. He (she points at me) definitely does not need another.
Me: I don’t know what she’s talking about.
Caitlin: We can’t have him be a drunken idiot all the time!
Buck: What if we actually need his help out there?
Jeanie: I’ll see what I can do. (She points at me) Are you done encouraging my wife and her Indiana Jones fantasy yet?
Hey everyone! Sorry for the wait on the next entry. I should be able to edit and put out a new one soon.
On Friday, October 18th, we got a distress signal. The lost mountaineer spoke to us through his radio and informed us that he was lost. A storm had developed over the area. While the wind wasn’t severe, the snowfall had drastically hindered his visibility. While the man had his bearings and didn’t seem to be in immediate physical danger, he had lost the man he’d ventured out with.
The man’s satellite location revealed him to be in a forest at the base of the mountain range. The two had traveled by snowmobile and had become separated from their vehicles after they explored on foot and didn’t return before the storm. He was ordered to remain where he was and not search for his friend or his vehicle. The trees and snowstorm made helicopter travel dangerous. We decided to embark on our snowmobiles.
Caitlin, Buck, and myself were joined by David. He was our helicopter pilot and an ex-military field doctor. He silently lead the group into the forest, our headlights beaming into a blanket of falling snow around us. For almost an hour, there was nothing but the hum of engines against the faint wisps of the storm. We were forced to move slow, making the trip last almost an hour across the suffocating expanse. My heart raced for the men as I stared into the white veil surrounding me. It was beautiful.
We reached the coordinates from the satellite phone to find a black mound powdered with snow leaning against a tree. The man was cowering against the trunk, shrouded by the tree buckling under the snow. Caitlin and Buck pulled him to his feet. His arms were clutched tightly to his chest. He didn’t grab his loose gear, so I picked up pile of rope and an ice axe leaning against the tree.
“Thank you,” the man said, his voice trembling, “thank you, thank you so much,” Each of his hands clutched Buck and Caitlin as he rested on the snowmobile.
“Ain’t nothing,” Buck said.
“Can you tell me your name?” Caitlin said.
“Jerry.”
“How are you feeling Jerry? Are you injured?”
“No ma’am.”
Caitlin asked him some more diagnostic questions while the man slowed his breathing. I surveyed the forest watching faint pillars of snow sift through the tree cover. It was quiet.
“Now Jerry,” Buck said, “you had someone traveling with you?”
“Yes sir.”
“Where did you lose him?”
“Up the mountain, sir, on the glacier.”
“Where?” Buck leaned in.
“I don’t know. We were walking down and it was snowing and I turned around and he was gone.”
“It’s alright, Jerry. We’ll fi–“
“I don’t know, man. We only went about a half mile up but we stayed too late and it started snowing on our way down. I couldn’t see anything, man.”
“When did he… hold up son, slow your breathing.”
“He was right behind me and then… when I turned he was gone.”
“How long ago did you lose him?” Caitlin said, putting her hand on his shoulder.
“He… I thought I could make it down to the snowmobile. Fuck man, I’m gonna have to tell his wife.”
David kneeled in front of the man. He took off his glasses and stared through the haze of the man’s labored breath.
“Jerry,” he said.
The man was quiet, clearly lost in thought.
“We were told your friends name is Hal, right?
“Yes, sir.”
“Now listen, when and where did you lose Hal?”
“I’m sorry, ma—“
“When, and where?”
“About a quarter mile down from where we were practicing at. Almost a quarter mile from the forest. By now, its been almost an hour and a half.”
David nodded and stood up.
“Thank you, Jerry,” Caitlin said, “We’ll take it from here.”
“You’ll find him?”
“Yessir,” Buck said, “David, you wanna drive him back?”
David shrugged and guided the man onto his snowmobile. I provided some encouraging words as I loaded up the rest of his gear. He was trembling when I shook his hand. Not ten minutes after we arrived, I watched as the blinking lights faded into the snow as the men rode off into storm.
The three of us remaining quickly roped ourselves together and put on our crampons.
“You wanna know what I think?” Buck said.
“Not usually.” Caitlin said.
Buck pulled back a branch and launched some snow into her face. She wiped it off, revealing a smug smile.
“So,” Buck says, “our Ben gets lost and he can’t see shit, right?”
“Yup.”
“And it’s clear these guys don’t have a lot of experience, so they were probably trying some new things out.”
“He said they were practicing something,” Caitlin said.
“He had a rope and an axe,” I added, “so they were probably trying out some climbing or crevasse rescue.”
“That’s what I’m thinking,” Buck said, “so our best shot is to follow their footsteps up the glacier. That’s gotta be our search area because if he got disoriented, he might have been the one to have the sense to stay in place.”
We walk towards the footsteps heading up the mountain. Before we got far, I said what we were all thinking.
“Do you think they went the Eye?”
“Nah,” Buck said, “these guys were reckless, but I don’t think they’d ignore the warnings.”
I was in the middle of the pack, so I turned to back to Caitlin to see what she thought. She just shrugged.
For fifteen minutes we marched through the forest, kicking up fresh powder into the air. My legs immediately started to burn. I focused on the land and everything I could appreciate. It’s rare to see a forest during a storm this strong and hear how quiet it is. Pitch white columns fell through the canopy but everything else was still. So many trees were slumping from the weight. Small ones in the distance started to look like people frozen on their way down the mountain, preserved from a time long ago.
In the distance we approached what looked like a white sheet cloaked over the trees. The wall of snow the forest’s edge appeared to be a cliff into nothingness. I shivered as I approached. Part of it felt too simple, almost welcoming.
“Lights on!” Buck yelled back to us.
The beams cut through the pouring snow and we followed the footsteps. I looked closely in front of us. The footsteps were small and deliberate. Evan must have made his way down slowly.
I surveyed our surroundings and saw a faint light at the ridge of the mountaintops. It just barely broke through the downpour. For a moment, it confused me what kind of light could be be flickering like a candle at the top of the mountain, but then I chuckled quietly to myself. It was the sun.
After almost half an hour of climbing, the steps in front of us got crowded and deep. We paused and looked for another path, but there was none. I briefly wondered if Hal had disappeared into thin air.
“Did he go back?” Caitlin yelled.
“I think so,” Buck hollered, “what do you think?”
I nodded, but I was confused. I understood being disoriented. The appeal of these places are that you get to forge your own path, problem solve when you get in trouble, but this was an emergency. How could you mistake going up for down?
For another fifteen minutes we marched in silence before coming upon a small mound of snow. We approached and noticed a sliver of blue cresting behind it. It got bigger as we approached and saw the scope of the crevasse next to it. It was the Eye, opening up to us. The tracks stopped there.
Instinctively, we left the previous tracks untouched to not destroy any evidence. Buck quietly surveyed the crevasse. Caitlin knelled at the side, the toe of her boot cresting over into the pit.
“Look,” she yelled, “there’s marks on the side.”
Faint lines of broken ice fell into the crevasse towards the hole. They were spaced out like footsteps. Someone had repelled down into the crevasse.
“Well,” Buck said, “these assholes went into the hole.”
“At least one did,” I said.
Caitlin and Buck started slowly walking around the crevasse, taking care to not disturb the snow and never straying too far as to become lost themselves. I stared into the crevasse and investigated the footholds created by their crampons. Everything indicated that one of the men had ventured down with the support of the other. Based on the marks around the hole, it was unlikely they did anything more than just look in before ascending.
My eyes were glossing across the ice looking for more clues when I noticed something, something I still can’t explain. The others were so preoccupied with the tracks that they missed something about the ice. I kneeled at the side.
Snow was pouring in, but it wasn’t sticking. Each flake hit the ice and drifted down into the hole like water down a drain. During our first encounter with it, the crashed snow ceiling littered the bottom, but now it was completely smooth.
For a moment, I forgot about Hal and became fascinated by what could be causing this. I took my glove off and put my palm against the ice. Cold, but it felt like almost like silk.
“That’s strange,” I said. Buck and Caitlin walked up to me.
“What are yo— oh,” Buck said, his arms crossed.
“Interesting,” Caitlin said while gazing into the Eye. She quickly returned to searching for tracks.
“This isn’t weird to you?” I said to her.
“Nope.”
I looked at Bill.
“Oh yeah, it’s weird,” he said, “but I ain’t concerned ‘bout it.”
“Why not?”
“I’m not a meteorologist. I can’t explain what’s up with it, but that don’t mean it’s weird.”
“Unless it helps us find that missing kid,” Caitlin yelled, “it’s not our concern right now. We need to find evidence that he isn’t in there.”
“You didn’t find anything?” I yelled.
They shook their heads. My heart rate spiked as I surveyed the crevasse, praying there was another option. Our lights were darting back and forth. My eyes eventually found their way to the ridge.
“Wait, when did we leave?” I yelled.
“What?” Buck said.
“A little over two hours ago,” Caitlin said.
“Jerry said it had been an hour and a half since he lost Hal, and it took us almost an hour to get up here.”
Buck looked confused for a moment, but then nodded his head.
“If it took us half an hour to get here from where he turned around,” I said, “then that means…two hours is the maximum amount of time he was up here before we arrived.”
“Probably a lot less too,” Caitlin said.
“Well put, kid,” Buck said, “that means he’s not far.”
“Not far?” Caitlin said, pointing to the hole, “Where else could he be?”
“We don’t know that!” Buck yelled, a slight quiver in his voice. “We can’t see shit, and it’s snowing so damn much his tracks could be covered!”
“There are no tracks, Buck,” Caitlin yelled, her hand outstretched in exhaustion, “You would have seen them.”
Buck put his hand over his chin and crouched. He stared at his feet, trying to see something in the snow. For a moment, the three of us sat with our thoughts, the only spark of ourselves against the oblivion.
“Check again,” Buck said as he stood up.
Caitlin and I rose and started circling the Eye. I approached the path we ascended on and studied the area. I walked down it to look for divergences, but upon returning I payed attention to the mound of snow right at the edge.
It was more pronounced than the surrounding disturbances. I thought for a moment that this is where the two repelled down, but the marks in the ice didn’t line up.
I noticed two parallel depressions pointing towards the edge, nearly identical to the ones I made when I kneeled at the side.
I looked closer, and the snow surrounding it was elevated beyond the displacements made by the surrounding footprints. I ran my finger across the ridge. It was softer. Fresher.
I quickly looked to the edge; when we arrived, Caitlin had kneeled to survey the Eye just to the right of the mound. Her foot dug into the snow just enough to meet the foundation of ice. Snow had already started to fill it in. I kneeled next to it and brought two of my fingers up to it.
Two fingertips brought together is roughly an inch, and the snow in Caitlin’s recent footprint had already risen enough to reach half of one finger. In only fifteen minutes, just over a quarter of an inch of snow fell, meaning that every hour, one inch of snow was covering our tracks. I went back to measure the fresh snow over where Ben was kneeling, and the snow just barely met the hight of my two fingers, and then another two on top of them.
“Two hours,” I said softly.
I held my breath, trying to think of another scenario than Ben kneeling there, completely still, for almost two hours. I measured again, trying to find any deviation in the snow that would prove me wrong. I found nothing. When the others returned, I told them my theory.
“It looks like he was here for a while. The snow piled up around him. Look.”
Caitlin and Buck leaned into the divot and nodded quietly.
“He disappeared just before we arrived, maybe even moments before we got up here.”
Caitlin only stood there quietly with her arms crossed. Buck said nothing.
“That’s all?” I said, “What do we do now?”
“We come back later to get the body,” Buck said.
“What?” I jumped to my feet. “He could still be alive in there! He might have been here just before we arrived!”
I was beginning to lose my breath. My mind was lost. I envisioned Hal, tired, cold, inexperienced, and alone up here, looking deep into the abyss, he decides to make it quick, just as we break across the horizon.
“Maybe h-“
“Kid,” Buck said, putting his hand on my shoulder, “the sun is going down. we have to head back. There’s nothing more we can do here.”
“He could have just fallen in! Maybe there’s time!”
“It’s too deep for us to rescue him now,” Caitlin said.
“We’ll be back tomorrow. We don’t know much, but we know for sure of them walked on top of the ice. That means it’s safe to cross.”
Flashes of white cascading over my team. The surge through my knees as I walked down the mountain. Rage. That’s what I remembered from the descent. When we got to the snowmobiles, I leaned over mine, taking long then usual to start it. I didn’t know if I wanted them to notice or not, but before I could find out, they were right there beside me.
“Don’t let this get to you,” Buck said, “Remember, we do what we can and that’s all we can do.”
“Relax tonight, okay?” Caitlin said, “Buck and I’ll go down to the hospital to talk to Jerry. We’ll be back here tomorrow, and I want you to take the day off.”
“Why?” I said, more surprised than upset.
“This has been a lot. You need rest. We’ll get one of the rangers to help us out.”
“Okay,” I said, my unease growing. Buck noticed.
“Hey, a day off never hurt nobody,” he said, “You were a big help today. I don’t think we were going to notice some of those clues without you.”
I looked down at my feet.
“Really!” Buck said, slapping me on the head, “You’re not dead weight, kid!”
Caitlin smacked me on the side of my head too. Buck hit the other side again, and the both spent a couple seconds bouncing my head between them until I broke and started to laugh.
“Lets get out of here,” Caitlin said, “and please take some time for yourself tonight! Take a warm bath. Do whatever it is you do. We’re gonna talk to Jerry and announce yet again that people need to leave that place alone.”
“Why do you think they went down there in the first place?” I said.
“Well, that’s what Jerry is going to tell us,” Buck said, “and if he doesn’t tell us, then we’ll see if David’s dead eyes will do him in.”
I chuckled and they started to head to their snowmobiles. I took a moment to breathe, and I looked at the spot I had helped Jerry from beneath the tree. Seeing him curled up made me remember how helpless he looked when we arrived, and then I remembered something.
“Hey,” I said, “you all want to make a bet?”
They both turned to me.
“When the first guy fell in, a piece of his ski was broken next to the hole, and that wasn’t there today, right?”
“Yeah,” they said in unison.
“Jerry was holding his jacket pretty tight when we found him. How much do you want to bet he’s got a souvenir?”
They both smiled.
After they arrived at the hospital, Jerry handed over the ski as soon as they asked. They delivered the news in return, and he became inconsolable. Both of them left just as Hal’s wife arrived at the hospital.
My night was quiet. I ended up taking a bath, hoping the pain in my muscles would leave with the water. I’d never been given a bubble bath as a child, so I treated myself to one. I watched the mountains of bubbles break against the air, the valleys sink, until there was nothing left but the reflection of my legs against the stillness. The longer I looked across the water, the more it appeared that nothing was there.
Out of a passion for internet history and to get some much needed inspiration, I decided to peruse some old blogs. I put some of my own writing aside for the sake of sharing this one that I retrieved from the Internet Archive. It was published in the winter of 2001. I’ve taken the liberty of changing some real names to simple placeholders and cleaned up some grammatical errors (I may have missed some). I will post more entries as I continue to put them together. They are scattered, but I’ve taken to calling them “Our Place in the Ice.”
Entry #1
If we don’t know, we cannot react. If we can’t react, we cannot hope. When I discuss what I’ve seen with others, they dismiss the patterns and gesture at the great unknown to explain it all away. I’ve seen too much for the charity that comes with accepting the emptiness of it all. There is a path through the unexplainable, either towards understanding itself or the true limits. Fighting to know either one of them is terrifying. A life in the wild has required that I learn this.
I’ve been volunteering with the local rescue team for almost four years since I moved to Alaska. I’ve come to accept the necessary grit I need to push myself into the mountains, but also the compassion to hold my boundary with the earth. I’ve broken through too much snow to find it’s turned red, to witness an adventurer on their final date with nature. The one that’s always coming, and yet it’s the one they never expect. The piece of equipment most commonly left behind by the people we rescue is humility.
I was eighteen when I started. Since I was thirteen I was climbing at any place my bike could take me. I solo camped in the winter and read about survival skills by flashlight. When I was sixteen, I took my car and I soloed the mountaineer’s route at Mount Whitney. I told my PE teacher about it and my mom got a call from the school.
A welfare check. My greatest honor. She didn’t care, lucky for me. I took off from home and high school as soon as the law would let me.
I got a job in a lumberyard and pestered my way into being involved in the local rescue team. Observing, then record keeping, then carrying the gear. For the past year, I’ve been saving lives. Consistently too, which is what has made recent events so strange.
On Friday, September 20th, we got a call from some hikers about a skier who crashed into a crevasse. The afternoon weather was clear so we took the helicopter and confirmed it from above: half of a broken ski laying towards the bottom of a crevasse less than a quarter mile where the glacier met the mountainside.
The crevasse in question was substantial. Approximately twenty-five feet wide and sixty feet long. It formed a rippling blue oval that could reasonably conceal our helicopter if we landed inside. The walls converged about twenty feet in the glacier to form a jagged bowl with the basin covered in slabs of broken ice and snow. As we descended at a safe distance, my team observed a hole no more than five feet in diameter offset slightly from the center.
We dismounted the helicopter and approached the side with care. This crevasse hadn’t been seen by the team before, and the bottom being covered in snow and broken ice meant the skier didn’t see it either.
All of us had the same judgement: he rode over and broke through the snow ceiling, carrying enough force to crash through the slab of ice below, creating the hole. My thought, while morbid, was that his ski likely snapped trying to hold his weight as he dangled by his foot.
We didn’t know when he fell or if he was dead or alive, but we knew he was in that hole.
All four of us stood at the edge while our team leader, Buck, squatted at the edge and tightened the bandana around his helmet. He quietly surveyed the bowl below while the rest of us started unpacking some of the medical equipment on our backs. Caitlin, another volunteer like me, started yelling into the crevasse that help has arrived. No response.
“Pulley is almost ready,” Caitlin said to the team.
“Don’t bother,” Buck said. Out of all of us, he had the most experience with rescues. He’d worked as a ranger at Denali for years and recently started working as a trauma surgeon while volunteering for rescues with our team.
“Why?” she said. I turned to face them. Both had pulled off rescues together for years, and I rarely saw them out of sync. The ranger with us continued to prepare for a rope rescue. Buck waved his hand over the crevasse.
“The bottom is delicate. It was thin enough for someone to fall through, including us if we get close to those cracks around the hole. Even if we managed to lower ourselves in, I reckon the rope would get damaged being pulled against the sharp ice. If the weight broke any more of the sides, it’ll send someone swinging. We don’t know how deep it is in there.”
Caitlin looked pensive for a moment and then nodded. The ranger looked up from his work with a confused look on his face. Buck responded.
“I ain’t ruling it out yet, but it’s too risky from where we’re at.”
I decided to speak up.
“What if we got a ladder, laid it across, and descended from a right angle above the hole? It’d be more stable that way.”
Buck turned to me. “You’re getting less dumb by the day, son,” he said with a smile, “but it wouldn’t support the weight. Plus, it’d be too tricky.”
I nodded as Buck turned to the ranger.
“We know who’s in there?”
“A young guy named James Melendez checked in at the ranger station this morning. He was the only person skiing alone today.”
He raised his eyebrows, “When this morning?”
“‘Bout six.”
Buck looked back at the hole and stroked his beard.
“Anything else?”
I ended up interjecting something I heard one of the rangers say before we left for the helicopter.
“Apparently he’s wearing a full red Marlboro ski suit.”
“Shit,” Buck said, “I like him already. Let me tell you what, hand me one of the med kits, a headlamp, and a radio.”
In less than a minute, Buck had tied them all to the end of a rope and started lowering them into the crevasse. We all crouched at the edge as we watched it drop into the inky spot beneath us. Just as it fell in, Buck held the rope tight and raised his radio.
“James, we’re lowering aid to you. Give us a sign of your condition if you can. Stay strong down there. We’ll get you out.”
We heard nothing but the dying echo of Buck’s voice against the mountains. He lowered the supplies further.
“Yell as loud as you can for us, James. We’re close.”
After no response, Buck continued to let out slack and the pack descended further. After some time hearing nothing but the scraping of the rope, our eyes left the crevasse and watched pile of rope behind us. It was a hundred feet long, and it was getting smaller.
“Speak to me, son,” Buck said, quieter this time.
Sixty feet left and the silence continued. The snow felt colder, the mountains grew tighter. Forty feet, and the ranger turned around. He hung his head and said nothing. Twenty feet, and Caitlin turned to wave at the helicopter. The engine ripped through the air as Buck extended his arm out into the crevasse, the tip of the rope in his palm. I looked at him and saw his eyes staring blankly into the wall of ice. Without saying a word, he began pulling the rope back up.
The team was quieter then usual on the ride back, especially me. The others were used to tragedies coming from people not taking the right safety measures. A part of them undoubtedly saw James as a fool, and if I’m being honest, I did too. I just tend to feel more pain for people like them. It wasn’t long ago that I was one of those guys going out alone into the wild. I never made a wrong move, or maybe I just got lucky, but I know now how vulnerable I was.
All I could think about was that guy lying beneath us. I knew with the depth of that chasm he was dead, but I hate that we left him in the dark and in that cold. At least we couldn’t hear anything, I thought to myself. We didn’t hear him suffer. I shuddered and sunk into my seat, watching the mountains get smaller in the window.
Caitlin quickly saw how I was feeling. She put her arm around my shoulder and I felt some of the weight melt away. She worked as a nurse for decades before volunteering and knew how to care for people better than any of us. You could tell by looking at her that the wrinkles on her face were chiseled by years of kindness. Buck, on the other hand, took off his glove and smacked my knee with it. I looked up and saw him smiling, giving me a thumbs up. I smiled too. We often couldn’t communicate easily over the noise of the helicopter, but we always found a way.
We contacted the family members we could at the station but couldn’t do much more. More rangers eventually assessed the situation and determined retrieving the body was too risky. The ice was too fragile but since we knew where James was, we would check the location often and reassess whenever we could. The crevasse stuck out visibly to anyone traveling around it and warnings were issues to all visitors. Little more was disclosed other than informing people that a fatal accident took place there and traveling near it was dangerous. It was marked on our maps and because of the shape the ice took, we took to calling it The Eye from then on.
For almost a month everything went as usual. Over the past season the team started trusting me to address medical issues and I helped bandage an exposed break in a snowboarder’s leg. Being only a high school grad meant I didn’t have a lot of options for learning this stuff, but Caitlin, when she wasn’t volunteering, worked as a biology professor. She encouraged me to sit in on her lectures and it inspired me enroll in community college. I’m planning on applying to med school soon, and keeping at is has made the previous failed rescue attempt less painful. I focused on looking forward.
At 4:45 on Wednesday I woke up and drove to Mount Rogers. After arriving at an isolated trailhead after four hours of driving, the hike seemed irrational. Fog was suffocating the mountain. I had no cell service, I wasn’t dressed for the rain, and I was frightened. I’d never hiked alone before.
A fiction teacher I had described the ideal narrative structure of a short story as one where the character ascends a mountain and everything ends right at the summit. I’m inclined to think this story will be boring because I didn’t reach the top of Mount Rogers. I only ended up traveling seven miles out of a twelve mile hike, so I’ll keep this post short as a result.
Around some nameless section of the trail that was almost completely overgrown, I leaned on my walking stick and looked out into the dense fog. I had an authentic opportunity to problem solve and be accountable to myself. Many stressors that come with daily life are only tangentially related to survival. It was a gift to be humbled by the present situation. So, I was honest with myself.
My ankles were blistering badly. I didn’t know it yet, but for days I wouldn’t be able to run or wear shoes from the pain. Breaking in my mountaineering boots for future trips was a good idea, but their firm soles made maneuvering on the rocks difficult. I had already slipped multiple times and the rain was flooding parts of the forest. I thought to myself that having trouble with ascending was only spelling doom if I went further up. After all, going up is optional, and going down is mandatory. The risk of a brutal slip as I descended was increasing.
However, the worst factor was that I was drenched. My tank top and shorts were a good idea, but not for long. All the extra layers I had in my bag to accommodate the elevation were wet and I was starting to shiver. Seventy degrees at the base of the mountain, and I was freezing. Everything to get a case of hypothermia in the summer was lined up: soaked, stuck in the wind, completely blocked from the sun, far away from medical help, and at an elevation where the weather can change rapidly. I also was fixated on the irony of my situation. Suffering hypothermia in the middle of the summer would be objectively embarrassing.
I suffered a lesser but still grading humiliation as I descended. My mind was flying through justifications for failing to complete relatively simple challenge. Compared to my dream ascents, this was nothing. Even if turning around was the rational and safe decision, it still felt ridiculous. What does this say about me as a person to turn around and “accept defeat?”
Strangely enough, I think this question was answered in a way that only experience can communicate, not artistic expression. As I walked down the trail, something cut through the monotonous sound of the rain. A tree had fallen somewhere down the mountainside. I couldn’t see it, but the crack echoed across the rocks. I paused for a moment to savor the lesson.
That tree was much older than me. It had seen a lot more than me, and to my knowledge, nobody heard it fall but me. Everything made sense after the woods reminded me of my place.
What does it say about me as a person that I “accepted defeat” and turned around? Nothing. I failed, but that’s it. The forest it still again.
Did the tree “fail” by falling? At a certain point, laughter is the only way this question can be answered.